By Richard Young
Herald Copy Editor
THERE IS CERTAINLY a lot of truth to old adages. I suppose that's why they are old to begin with. Truth is timeless.
A couple of months ago, I wrote a column about groundhogs. Specifically, I proposed that we stop celebrating them as we do every Feb. 2 and begin treating them for what they are, destructive, nuisance creatures that can play havoc with a farmer's pasture, riddle an old building's foundation with holes and mow down a vegetable garden slicker than a Lawnboy.
I have twice been the victim of a ravenous rodent, losing a garden each time. And it is from my hatred of groundhogs that I proposed (tongue in cheek) that we give them a purpose, namely, use them as a food product.
Eating groundhog is certainly nothing new. Henry David Thoreau did it and wrote about it when he lived in the woods beside Walden Pond. A groundhog ravaged his bean field, so he killed it and cooked it for experiment's sake. (A man after my own heart.)
Knowing that there had to be Herald readers out there who have actually prepared a "chuck" for the dinner table, I put out the call for testimonies and recipes, if only to prove that I haven't gone completely off the deep end.
I expected to hear from animal-rights activists who would call for my own public flogging, but I was surprised that I didn't receive one such word. Obviously this area hasn't given in entirely to the politically correct hysteria of the time.
What I did receive was three honest-to-goodness recipes from three interesting and delightful readers. And moreover, I learned the truth of some old adages. They are: "You don't learn anything unless you ask questions" and "Don't knock it 'til you try it."
To start with, I learned that my very own mother and her family enjoyed groundhog when times were lean during the Depression. I knew that they had coon on occasion, but never groundhog. Seems Granddad wasn't too particular about what he shot.
From the same vein and time, my uncle revealed that he ate crow at least once. (No big deal, you might say. Lynn Saternow does it all the time. But this has nothing to do with sports.) "You'll eat anything if you're hungry enough," my uncle said. Wise words. But he wouldn't recommend it today, "not enough meat on the breast."
What all three responding readers swear to is that groundhog, cleaned and prepared properly, is very good eating. No kidding.
Melvin Slezak, a hunter and Sawhill retiree from Hermitage, says the taste is between that of rabbit and venison. And most important for the taste, he said, is how the groundhog is dressed after it has been dispatched.
One must remove the musk glands from under each leg, for that improves the flavor, he claims. And that makes sense, because Thoreau complained of a "musky flavor" when he cooked his game. He probably didn't bother to remove the musk glands. I bet had Melvin been there to advise him, Thoreau would have had groundhog more than once.
Melvin also recommends that for best flavor, try to get a young groundhog and get him early in the summer, before they start to put on extra fat for the winter. Part of the reason for the good taste is the lean quality of the meat, made so by the fact that a groundhog is a very strict vegetarian and "clean eater."
"You are what you eat," he explained. "Groundhogs are not garbage eaters; they love clover and your vegetables. That's why they taste like rabbit. A bear, on the other hand, tastes like pork because they go through the slop and garbage like a pig." Makes sense to me.
Dolores Linn of Clarks Mills agrees that it's best to get a young one. But she cautions it's better to let the flavor of the meat speak for itself. In other words, don't tell your squeamish guests what you're serving until well after digestion.
"My mother used to cook them when we were kids. She just dipped them in flour and fried them in lard. We thought they tasted good, and I remember one rule that we were supposed to obey. If we had company for dinner, do not ever tell them what they were eating until the meal was over (especially older ladies, because they always got a stomach ache)."
Margaret Lazorishak of Patagonia attests to the flavor of a young chuck, a dish she prepared years ago as a new bride. She consulted a game cookbook, broiled the meat, cut it up, rolled it in flour and pan fried it.
She admits she was a little apprehensive about eating it at first, but the taste won her over. "A good cook always tastes what she cooks," she said, "and he was good."
Now I don't know about you, but I don't need any more evidence to be convinced. Roast groundhog sounds pretty good, especially if served with sweet potatoes. (See accompanying recipe.)
Still, there are those who just can't get past the thought of eating Punxsutawney Phil, one of them being Herald Features Editor Linda Linonis. When I suggested we do a food page on groundhog, she just looked at me out the corner of her eye and said, "Get away from me." Imagine. It took her awhile to come around.
Nevertheless, remember the old adage, "don't knock it 'til you try it." Those are the words we need to keep before us, in whatever we do, and thatıs my advice as I offer you this recipe, sent in by Melvin Slezak. Here it is, should you some day brain a whistle pig and wish to experiment in the kitchen.
If it's a young groundhog, give me a call. My curiosity is piqued.
I think this is an idea that should be shared with anyone who love them or hate hate them is familiar with groundhogs.
Anybody know the ZIP Code for Punxsutawney?
Richard Young is a copy editor for The Herald. He lives in Jamestown, Pa.
The following groundhog recipe was submitted by Melvin Slezak of Hermitage, a longtime hunter and connoisseur of wild game. The choice of red wine chopped onions, celery make it a hearty fare for the adventurous cook or the disgruntled gardener.
Although this recipe calls for roasting, groundhog can also be poached and pan fried and, for that matter, stir fried for an Oriental flair. Such is its versatility. If you have only one whistle pig for the pot, just divide the ingredients in half. For those of you watching your cholesterol, simply eliminate the bacon strips and substitute margarine for butter.
And don't worry about using the red wine. Alcohol evaporates quickly in cooking, leaving only the flavor in the dish. So there is no harm in serving this meal to people under 21. Enjoy!
Roasted Ground Hog
2 young ground hogs (in season)
2 medium onions, chopped
1 tablespoon black pepper
2 cups red wine
1 teaspoon marjoram
4 strips bacon
1 tablespoon salt
1/4 pound butter
1 cup chopped celery
1 can sweet potatoes in syrup
1. Clean and skin hogs removing glands under all legs and soak in salt water over night. Drain and dry.
2. Wrap each hog with two strips of bacon and place in roaster with wine, onions, celery, salt, butter, pepper and marjoram.
3. Roast at 350 degrees for 1 hour and 15 minutes.
4. Pour sweet potatoes and syrup over hogs and roast another 15 to 20 minutes.