After gently hoisting the Baccarat crystal bottle a few inches from a silk-lined wooden box, David Galicia carefully cradles the container.

As manager of the Hermitage State Liquor Store, Galicia is used to handling hundreds of bottles daily. But this one is exceptional.

It's not the decorative bottle that gives it a $1,200 sticker price. It's the precious liquid inside -- 150-year-old Louis XIII de Remy Martin Grande Champagne Cognac from France.

"This is something unusual,'' Galicia said. "It's not something you're going to find in regular stores.''

Long known as a slam-a-shot-of-hooch-down-the-gullet region, the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board is betting local thirsts are ready for a more genteel taste. The store at Hermitage Towne Plaza is the latest specialty shop created by the state agency and the only one between the Pittsburgh and Erie markets.

With a ribbon-cutting ceremony scheduled for Monday, the store now offers spirits and wines that previously required special orders.

By nearly doubling the size of the Hermitage to 6,000 square feet, up to 800 new products have been added for those with eclectic or refined palates. Louis XIII Cognac is by far the most expensive item in the store's fresh lineup, but more than 70 percent of the new merchandise is under $50.

Some of the items goes for visual appeal such as Clear Creek Pear. This pear brandy has a ripened pear inside the bottle and costs $64.19.

Another choice is a very small bottle of Giorio grappa for $50. Grappa is a clear liquid made from the stem, seeds and skins from fermented wine. The liquor is in a clear container resembling a Christmas tree decoration which hangs from a stand. Yet another off-the-beaten-path choice is Cynar, an artichoke liquor which sells for $15.99.

And for those who like desert flavors there's Sabra, an $18 liquor from Israel which combines orange and chocolate.

"Basically, a specialty store has items not on our regular price list,'' Galicia said.

Pennsylvania holds the monopoly on liquor and most wine sales through its 637 state store system. State residents have long complained they didn't have access to broader wine selections and fancy liquors that could be found across the border.

To keep residents happy -- and shopping within the state -- the PLCB has created 17 specialty stores throughout the commonwealth and another 23 super stores -- even bigger stores which carry more merchandise.

"More people are drinking more wine now than spirits,'' said Jeff Amon, district manager for PLCB. "That's another reason why we're getting into specialty stores, people are looking for good wines.''

The Hermitage specialty store has boosted its wine selection to 2,600 from 1,800 with many now parked horizontally in wooden bins. Having an expanded French and Italian wine selection, the store has added new countries: New Zealand, Spain, Portugal and Israel, to its wine list.

Buying wine in a box selling for under $15 has been very popular, Amon noted.

"A bag is inside the box so as you drink the wine the bag shrinks and no air gets in it. Air spoils wine,'' he said.

Among the spirits, vodka has been a strong seller in recent years particularly in the high-end category such as Grey Goose and Absolut.

Those looking for the ultimate in top shelf the store's selection includes: